Facing 100 degree temperatures in Philadelphia this week, we thought we’d share some tips for how to care for your trees in this heat.
Below are some helpful suggestions from the expert “tree people” on the PHS staff.
While all trees deserve care, newly planted species require the most attention. If you are aware of a tree that has been planted in the past year, do the right thing and be sure to help it through this heat-wave.
Watering
- Water is crucial for your tree’s survival, particularly during the first year after planting. Water deeply and slowly.
- Water your tree when the soil is dry beneath the mulch. Apply approximately 15 to 20 gallons of water once a week from March until the end of October, and twice a week during periods of no or little rain.
- Trickle water onto the soil surface using a hose, or allow water to seep from a bucket with small holes in the bottom. (The large, white five-gallon buckets work well.) You can also purchase watering bags, such as the Treegator.
- The best time to water is before 9 am – during a drought emergency this even may be the law!
Protecting
- Trash can prevent water from reaching your tree’s roots and cause a decline in your tree’s health. Substances like motor oil, de-icing salt, detergent, and urine can kill your tree. Clean the area around your tree periodically and prevent harmful substances from entering the soil.
- Tree roots require water and air for survival. Compacted soil and cemented pits prevent water and air from reaching tree roots.
- Cultivating the soil surface around your tree encourages water and air to enter the soil.
- Do not use fertilizer. Many varieties contain high salt indexes and this can exacerbate drought problems.
Mulching
- Mulch helps conserve water and keeps roots cooler in the summer. Maintain a 2-4” layer of mulch around your tree, taking care not to pack it against the trunk. Always remember to weed and cultivate the soil before mulching. Recommended mulches include wood chips, composted leaves, and pine needles.
Pruning (Only as a Last Resort)
- Pruning during a drought can stress a tree. Pruning exposes previously shaded leaves to the strongest rays of the sun, potentially burning them. With the exception of dead, diseased, or damaged branches, pruning during a severe drought should be limited.
For additional summer tree care tips, including answers to common questions, click here.
Posted in: Trees
Cynthia Kishichand
July 15, 2010
I keep getting notices from UC Green about their dates for their “Pruning Club.”
Mike Hardy, the president/chairman, of this group’s board is an employee of PHS for tree tender projects and, as a member of UC Green is an active tree tender.
Could someone at PHS please share this notice Mike, Mindy Maslin, and all PHS tree tender staff so they can send this information to all tree tender groups throughout the region?
We all want to do the right thing at the right time.
I am the coordinator of East Falls Tree Tenders. I am member of the PHS Tree Tender Training Class of 1995.
Re watering, for the past few years every tree recipient receives a bucket with watering instructions when a tree is planted. For the next 3-6 years I send watering reminders as needed based on rainfall.
Cynthia Kishinchand
PG Editor
July 16, 2010
Hi, Cynthia. I passed your note on to Michael and Mindy. Take good care of those trees!
Cynthia Kishichand
July 21, 2010
Dear Beverly,
Please be specific as to how long a TreeGator Bag should stay at the tree. If you send me your email address, I will be happy to send you the East Falls Tree Tenders watering notice which includes the use of treegators.
Please be specific as to how one measures the amount of water passed through a hose. I have no idea how long I would have to hold a hose to ensure the tree received 15 gallons of water.
Please advise folks to hold the hose rather than to leave it on the sidewalk while the water passes through the hose to the pit. A person in a wheel chair could have a problem trying to go over a hose on the sidewalk. If the person holds the hose, said person could move back when a person in a wheel chair is en route.
Pruning – This notice recommends against pruning during a drought yet today I received another notice from UC Green about their Pruning Club.
Please check with Sue Pringle, Winnie Harris, Mike Hardy, and Mindy Maslin and then advise me accordingly.
PHS and UC Green have me so confused!
Thank you.
Cynthia Kishinchand
East Falls Tree Tenders.
judy lane
July 27, 2010
I have two baby butterfly trees. They are growing tall (as they should) and very wide. Is this normal because they are young ? Will the fill out as time goes on. Also something is eating the leaves, what do you recommend? Thank you !
PG Editor
July 28, 2010
Judy,
The plants you mentioned are in fact bushes, not trees. But it is completely natural for them to grow at that rate. You may want to cut them back once, maybe twice a year. Believe me, they will come back! As for what’s eating your bush, we can’t say for sure, but visit your state’s agricultural extension and see if they can help you determine the culprit.
Judith Froehlich
July 27, 2010
We live in a zone 10 +. We have several Fruit trees which are doing wonderful. Can you tell me how much we should cull our Peach tree,each year to insure proper fruit production. We have a problem finding anything out about how to thin our tree. This year our tree is so loaded with fruit that the branches are hanging to the ground. Our tree is about 16 foot tall. We have already thined it but the fruit is small and has no taste.It looks like we will have to strip the tree and wait for next yaer. But we still will have this problem next year. Please help.
PG Editor
July 28, 2010
Judith,
While our area of knowledge lies more with street trees and urban settings, we recommend you call a certified arborist or visit your state’s agricultural extension. There are lots of factors involved—pruning definitely being one of them—but contacting these experts is a good first step.
PG Editor
July 29, 2010
Also, we found some information that may be helpful here: Perhaps you’ll benefit from thinning your peach output so that the good ones will turn out really, really good. Best of luck!
TRACY BISHOP
July 27, 2010
I HAVE AWELL AND CANNOT WATER THAT MUCH…
I HAVE INFO THAT 1 GAL. FOR 3 FEET OF TREE WILL BE ENOUGH TO SAVE THEM DURING DROUGHT .
CAN YOU CHECK THAT FOR ME..
ALSO MY LELAND CYPRESS ARE LOSING A LOT OF BROWN NEEDLES WILL THEY SURVIVE AND GROW MORE NEEDLES?
PG Editor
August 2, 2010
Hi, Tracy. Sorry to hear about your cypress. I’ve asked around at the consensus seems to be there is no definitive way to know if it’s sick or just suffering from the summer heat. Perhaps you should contact your state’s agricultural extension for a consultation.
In regards to how much water a tree requires and how to spare your well from over-use, click here to learn more.
Marie McLeod
July 27, 2010
I would also like to know how long a treegator bag should stay on a tree.
My tree is approximately three years old. I received my tree from tree tenders. The name of my tree is a Carolina Silverbell. It’s growing nicely.
PG Editor
August 2, 2010
Hi, Marie. Glad to hear your tree is doing well. For information regarding the Treegator and how long it should stay on your tree, visit this post.
eileen roberts
July 28, 2010
newsletter
PG Editor
July 28, 2010
Thanks for all the comments. We’re going to prepare a follow-up story to answer these and other questions about summer tree care. Stay posted!
Eruca
July 28, 2010
I wanted to know more about when a shrub or tree is “sunburnt”….what does that mean?
PG Editor
July 30, 2010
Hi, Eruca. Yes, it’s true. Plants and trees can be “burned” due to excessive sun, heat, etc. This summer has been especially brutal. Certain plants are more resistant than others, for example junipers and most conifers don’t burn easily. There is little you can do to prevent your larger shrubs and trees from getting sun-burned, so be sure to give them plenty of water. Consult your local agricultural extension for specified information.
D.A.McGovern
August 11, 2010
I have four red Crepe Myrtle bushes that have not bloomed in three years since the day I bought them. They did have blooms on them at that time, but have never rebloomed. Have fertilized with natural horse manure mixed with shavings and also used commercial fertilizer on them. Nothing makes them bloom. They never produce any buds. Is this a reproduction problem, but I have other colors and only one of each of them and they bloom profusely every year. What is my problem?
Casey
August 23, 2010
D-
I’ve heard that if Crepe Myrtle’s are too heavily fertilized with nitrogen they may put more energy into the leaves but fail to produce blooms. Crepe Myrtle’s also need abundant sunlight to bloom and should thinned out after the buds are set if the branching gets too thick.
Gene Martin
August 11, 2010
I have tried on several occations attemped to trans plaint a berry tree from Calif. to Az. in ten attemps not one survied!
I live in the higfh desert 3500 feet. there allmost no rain and little snow. the temps range from 25* to 100* in the summer time. And BOY” is it HOT”. Is there any hope? Thank you.
-30-
Casey
August 23, 2010
Gene,
Those are some tough growing conditions! Many fruit trees are quite sensitive to extremes especially, extreme cold to hot and little water. Try reading this article for some advice on planting cherry trees in the desert. http://www.ehow.com/how_6115638_grow-cherry-trees-desert.html
stella
August 12, 2010
i live in west texas and would like to know why my trees loosing their leaves already . the leaves look like they are being eaten from the inside out and some of the branches are dead. some of the trees in the neighbor’s yard are dead and the rest look like they won’t last much longer. i want to know what o can do to keep mine fron dying.
thanks for whatever you can recommend.
Casey
August 23, 2010
Stella,
I am not too familiar with tree pests of Texas, but I can recommend that you contact Texas AgriLife Extension Service run out of Texas A&M. They can help you identify your pest and possibly offer some solutions. You can find out how to contact them here. http://texasextension.tamu.edu/
Manuela Da Silva
August 13, 2010
Hi, I planted a Royal Red Maple about a couple months ago. The tree suffered an abundance of water due to rain. the tree was practicaly in a pool of water. the leaves started to dry and the tree now looks ded but new leaves are growing at the trunk. does it mean the tree is going to be OK next year?
Thank you for your help
Casey
August 23, 2010
The Royal Red Maple is actually a misleading name, because it is not a red maple at all. It is actually a cross between a Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) with a little sugar maple (Acer saccharum) mixed in. These trees generally prefer well-drained soils and may not be so tolerant of constant flooding. Generally, when the tree looks ‘crispy’ and starts spouting from the base, it means the tree is dead and is pushing out growth from the limited remaining energy stored in the roots. I would recommend planting a true Red Maple (Acer rubrum) in its place. It’s not as invasive as the Norway maple and you will still get a wonderful red color in the fall.